Travelleity: Zephyr Trip: Day 4

Route, Days 4 & 5: Denver, CO, to Emeryville, CA

We grabbed a quick breakfast with my sister before she dropped us off at the temporary Amtrak station near Coors Field [Denver's Union Station is being remodeled]. We got on the train soon after it arrived, and secured similar seats to the ones we had rolling into town [although we ended up with a lady just behind us who seemed to sleep the entire 30 hours to Emeryville].

Big-10 Curve and Denver in the distance

The train pushed out, and began making its way toward the Rockies. The first major change in elevation occurs at the "Big-10" curve as the train uses this huge switchback to get up into the foothills. The downdrafts from the mountain are so strong that they had to weld full hopper cars to a track next to the curve to act as a windbreak. As you rise, the east side of the train had a last view of Denver and the Great Plains- goodbye flatlands!

The Tunnel District.

The Amtrak began winding its way through the mountains in what's known as the "Tunnel District," a series of 29 tunnels that interrupt the already-breathtaking vistas. Here you'll catch a distant view of the Gross Dam & Reservoir, which provides the Denver metro area with all of its drinking water. The final tunnel is the 6.2-mile Moffat Tunnel, which also takes you through the Continental Divide. So from here on out, all rivers lead to the Pacific!

Fraser, CO

By now we were high enough for snow to still be a couple feet deep, and we spent a long stop at Fraser, Colorado, as a big ski group unloaded at the station. The train began following the Fraser River, which soon led to the upper reaches of the Colorado River. The tracks wind along the water, with an occasional tunnel or trestle, using the river's constant grade as a guide. Early on we passed through Gore Canyon, which is only accessible via Amtrak or trying to take on the Class V rapids by kayak or raft. With the train constantly turning to follow the river, the views up and down the valleys were spectacular.

Train #6, eastbound

Amtrak doesn't own any of the tracks on the route, so occasionally we would have to park and wait for [higher priority] Union Pacific trains to pass us. Usually a mile or two of coal-filled hoppers, with engines at the front, middle, and back of the trains to push it through the difficult grades. At one point, our westbound California Zephyr [Train #5] passed its eastbound sister train [Train #6], headed back the way we had come.

Welcome to Utah

As the afternoon wore on, we slowly made our way out of the Rockies, making a couple stops including Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction. By the time we caught up with Interstate 70, the snow had disappeared and the canyons and cliffs began to take on a red hue; an early preview of the Colorado's Grand Canyon handiwork. Around dinner time we officially passed the Colorado-Utah state line. Cas and I were paired up with travelers from Norway and Amsterdam, and the sun set as we had dessert. I highly recommend the cream puffs!