Zephyr Trip: Day 4

Route, Days 4 & 5: Denver, CO, to Emeryville, CA

We grabbed a quick breakfast with my sister before she dropped us off at the temporary Amtrak station near Coors Field [Denver's Union Station is being remodeled]. We got on the train soon after it arrived, and secured similar seats to the ones we had rolling into town [although we ended up with a lady just behind us who seemed to sleep the entire 30 hours to Emeryville].

Big-10 Curve and Denver in the distance

The train pushed out, and began making its way toward the Rockies. The first major change in elevation occurs at the "Big-10" curve as the train uses this huge switchback to get up into the foothills. The downdrafts from the mountain are so strong that they had to weld full hopper cars to a track next to the curve to act as a windbreak. As you rise, the east side of the train had a last view of Denver and the Great Plains- goodbye flatlands!

The Tunnel District.

The Amtrak began winding its way through the mountains in what's known as the "Tunnel District," a series of 29 tunnels that interrupt the already-breathtaking vistas. Here you'll catch a distant view of the Gross Dam & Reservoir, which provides the Denver metro area with all of its drinking water. The final tunnel is the 6.2-mile Moffat Tunnel, which also takes you through the Continental Divide. So from here on out, all rivers lead to the Pacific!

Fraser, CO

By now we were high enough for snow to still be a couple feet deep, and we spent a long stop at Fraser, Colorado, as a big ski group unloaded at the station. The train began following the Fraser River, which soon led to the upper reaches of the Colorado River. The tracks wind along the water, with an occasional tunnel or trestle, using the river's constant grade as a guide. Early on we passed through Gore Canyon, which is only accessible via Amtrak or trying to take on the Class V rapids by kayak or raft. With the train constantly turning to follow the river, the views up and down the valleys were spectacular.

Train #6, eastbound

Amtrak doesn't own any of the tracks on the route, so occasionally we would have to park and wait for [higher priority] Union Pacific trains to pass us. Usually a mile or two of coal-filled hoppers, with engines at the front, middle, and back of the trains to push it through the difficult grades. At one point, our westbound California Zephyr [Train #5] passed its eastbound sister train [Train #6], headed back the way we had come.

Welcome to Utah

As the afternoon wore on, we slowly made our way out of the Rockies, making a couple stops including Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction. By the time we caught up with Interstate 70, the snow had disappeared and the canyons and cliffs began to take on a red hue; an early preview of the Colorado's Grand Canyon handiwork. Around dinner time we officially passed the Colorado-Utah state line. Cas and I were paired up with travelers from Norway and Amsterdam, and the sun set as we had dessert. I highly recommend the cream puffs!

Waiting for a Union Pacific freight train

Gross Dam in the Eastern Rockies

Just after passing the Continental Divide

Fraser River

Shortly after meeting the Colorado River

Gore Canyon

Waterwheel

Crossing

The Lounge Car [Glenwood Springs stop]

Glenwood Springs, CO

Highlands Retreat

Cattle

Bridge over the River Colorado

Eons of Rock

Mountain Vineyard

I-70's river route

Star-shaped mesa

Welcome to the West

Zephyr Trip: Day 3

Denver to Boulder

After an 80-degree Day 2 of the trip, we were hoping to continue the nice weather and do some Rocky Mountain hiking on Day 3. The morning started out warm and sunny as we made our way to St. Elizabeth of Hungary for Mass. A church used both by Roman Catholic and Russian Byzantine parishes, a hinged screen near the altar allows for differences in the services.


By the time we got outside again, the wind had picked up and dark, heavy-looking clouds had begun rolling out of the mountains to the west. Uh-oh. On the drive to my sister's place, the first raindrops began to fall. After consulting with the resident Denverites, we had to give up our dreams of hiking [snow was on the way, since the temperature was rapidly falling too].

Free tea!

Instead, we set out for the Celestial Seasonings factory just outside of Boulder, Colorado. The free tours take off hourly, and you gather in a room full of the framed art that their packaging is famous for. You are also given a small cup, and can try the 75+ types of tea they have to offer- also free. Oddly the cups do not have handles [which can be trouble if you're slow getting your hot hot hot tea to a table], but who can say no to free tea?

Step right up

The tour itself has a to-be-expected video to kick things off, with a brief history/philosophy/business spiel. Then the group heads into the factory itself [which was quiet due to it being a Sunday afternoon]. You will pass by sweet-smelling boxes of raw ingredients, and learn a few more facts about Celestial Seasonings and the tea trade. The highlight of the tour is when you're invited to step into the mint room, which has been sealed off from the rest of the factory. This is because the potent herbs would dominate the air with their scent; as soon as you step into the room, you can feel the menthol interacting with your tearducts/sinuses/throat. While refreshing, it is also a little disconcerting.

A few teas available for purchase...

The tour exits into their Gift Shop, which has all of their varieties of tea for sale. Good for some cheap, tasty souvenirs. You can also find tea-flavored lip balm, various sweeteners, and dozens of styles of ceramic cups.

Beerhall ahoy

We left the factory and headed into downtown Boulder, which is situated at the base of the Rockies' foothills. Of course, the low clouds/rain made them impossible to see. Boulder is home to the University of Colorado, and also gave birth to the Craft beer movement in America. This means that there are plenty of small beerhalls to visit, and we chose to try the Mountain Sun Pub & Brewery. After a free sample, we all ordered a round. I went with their Java Stout, which was dark, smooth, and had the coffee-aftertaste I love my porters to have. Yum.


By the time we returned to Denver in the early evening, a heavy snow had begun. We settled in for some tomato soup & grilled cheese at my sister's place, then watched the 2000 version of Jesus Christ Superstar. This may have been a mistake, as we would have those songs stuck in our heads for the next leg of our Amtrak journey.

Also managed to swing by Fabric Bliss

Wandering the streets of Boulder

You can almost see the Rockies behind us...

Zephyr Trip: Day 2

Downtown Denver

Colorado farmland

We woke up just before dawn somewhere in eastern Colorado. At first the Rocky Mountains were only a darker blue on the western horizon, but as the sun began to rise the snowcaps began to turn orange. I'm sure 'back in the day' it would have been even more dramatic, crossing the plains for weeks and weeks, then finally seeing something other than endless Prairie.

Mountains ahoy!

We rolled into Denver slightly ahead of schedule- nice! My parents and brother were just finishing up their Spring Break trip in Colorado visiting my sister, so Day 2 provided a rare 'entire Matteson family' event on the road. After being fortunate enough to check in early at the hotel [it was 8:30 am], we dumped our bags and grabbed a quick breakfast. We were eager to get out and enjoy the 80-degree [!] day.

Civic Center Park

Cas and I walked a lap around Colorado's statehouse while waiting for the rest of the family to join us. The capitol building sits at the head of Civic Center Park, facing the city/county building at the other end, and the Rockies in the distance. A step leading up to the capitol's front doors is labeled as 'One Mile Above Sea Level'... so yes the Mile-High City title is an exact measurement.

Libeskind's DAM

We took advantage of the nearby Denver Museum of Art's 'Free First Saturday' promotion, and then found a nearby brunch place at 'Dozens'. The weather was perfect for wandering semi-aimlessly, and we worked our way over to the 16th Street Mall- the main shopping drag that is closed to all traffic except for a free bus shuttle system that runs regularly up-and-down the boulevard. We walked most of its length heading northwest towards the Platte River and the bridge overlooking Commons Park.

Mattesons on tour

A few of us caught a Final Four game at Wynkoop Brewing [Denver's Oldest Brew Pub], while the other half of the party grabbed a nap back at the hotel. So we were all relaxed and ready for some quality Italian dining across the river at Gaetano's. A nice, warm, full day.

5,280 feet up

Defend the high ground!

Denver State Capitol building

16th Street suspension bridge tower

Zephyr Trip: Day 1

California Zephyr: Naperville-->Denver overnight route

It's been a long time since my last vacation... unless you call unemployment a vacation. But now back in the working world, it's easier to appreciate time off. A-niiiiice. It's also the first week away with Cas... which will coincide nicely with Day 6.

All Aboard!

Our trip began in Naperville, IL, conveniently the first stop for Amtrak's California Zephyr, its 2,438-mile route between Chicago and Emeryville, CA [on the east side of San Francisco Bay]. Looking back, I can't believe I hadn't taken a long-distance rail ride in the States before now. I love the trains of Europe when abroad... TrenItalia, the German ICE, the French TGV... so easy to get where you need to go, and not have to worry about busing it into town from a distant airport. Then again, I was also praying for the train to be relatively on time, and avoid any horror stories of my own.

Our Coach seats...

Waiting for the train in Naperville, the weather was a seasonal 35 degrees with a light sleet blowing in our faces. We couldn't wait for California. The westbound Amtrak Train #5 arrived on schedule, so far so good, and we went from conductor to conductor, being referred to a coach car with our 'reserved' seats. We walked up to the second floor of the car, and chose a pair of seats with a 'D/2' posted over them [to Denver, party of 2, simple enough...].

Lounge car

The California Zephyr route is described as 'the most beautiful railroad trip in America'... however, almost all of the scenery takes place post-Denver. So after getting settled in coach, we had a lot of Great Plains to see. Weather cleared up as we rode west, and other than a 'smoke stop' in Galesburg, IL, which allows 10-or-so minutes outside the train at select stations, we explored the Coach car [our overnight seats], the Lounge car [with its many windows] and the Dining car [made reservations for the 5pm dinner].

Dinner & a river

It was during dinner that we crossed the Mighty Mississippi; that's about the only landmark on Day 1. Since Cas and I only filled half a table in the Dining car, we were paired with a retired couple from Ontario, Canada. We swapped travel stories [including a hearty endorsement of Malta from them] over salad and breadrolls, then the entrées [tonight we had steak & trout]. The food was a pleasant surprise, but a little pricey [~$25 per person with a beer or glass of wine]. But how often can you dine while looking out on the freshly-planted cornfields of Iowa at 70 miles per hour?

Got a lot of reading done after the sun had set, and tried to get as comfy as we could in our coach seats. If you were to do this trip in one go [2 nights in a row] I'd highly suggest reserving the more expensive Sleeping berths [which also include all meals]. But one-night-at-a-time is doable, and although we had much more legroom than in a plane, I still woke up several times with a stiff neck. But after traveling through Nebraska overnight, you're promised views of the Rockies!

Boxcar says where we're headed

Liked the lines in this one

The Great Plains

Sunset over Iowa