Game of Rome: An Introduction

Not unlike a certain popular book/television series, Rome has had its share of power-grabbing and competing families. While many began their ascent to fortune and fame in the outlying Italian provinces, their ultimate goal was often control of the papacy and the Eternal City. Of course, we all want a permanent reminder of our glories; while the Italians couldn't upload photos to facebook or post their random topics/thoughts to a blogging service, they did the next best thing: commissioning their artists for tombs, chapels, monuments, palazzi, and churches.

But what's the point in building something if you can't show who was responsible for the Glorious work? While today's big donors get a dry "John Q. Private Wing" sign over the entrance to their funded projects, Renaissance artists and architects were a little more creative in tying their designs back to the family or individual that made it possible.

Every family was associated with certain symbols that were as good as the family name itself for identification. The Stark direwolf. The Lannister lion. Oops, that's GoT. The Barberini bees. The Chigi mounds. While one of the easiest ways to claim ownership was to put up a shield with this coat-of-arms over the new project, there were many other ways to tie in the benefactor's identity. At the end of the day, a church may come off as more of a blatant advertisement for someone's glory than merely a place of worship.

So on our last vacation back to Rome, we tried to make it a point to catch the (sometimes not-so-) little details proclaiming the generous donors that made Rome's rebirth possible. As I sort through our photos, I'll post some examples and link to them below...

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Past Blast: Lucca

Not pigeons... SQUAB!

Probably a piazza up ahead! 

Near the Italian west coast in Tuscany, Lucca [loo-ka] still retains its medieval fortress walls surrounding the dense urban core of the city. You'll notice that streets seem darker, buried between taller buildings due to lack of space. After visiting the hilly towns of Tuscany, Lucca feels more like a Chicago landscape- it sits on a flat plain. So there isn't any up-and-down hiking to be had.


Since the streets are so narrow, the piazzas tend to attract more than their share of crowds. Lucca still retains the original Roman grid plan in the center near San Michele in Foro, literally 'Saint Michael in the Forum'. Plenty of tourists, saw players, and pigeoni to be found here. Be sure to visit the Piazza Anfiteatro, which still retains the shape of the original Roman amphitheater. And a note on that saw player video [below]: either all saw players look alike, or I also saw him in Florence and back home in Rome.

Peace & Quiet

Somebody likes making stencils... customize your own!

Past Blast: Cefalù

A piazza on the Mediterranean

Located in the center of Sicily's north coast, Cefalù is a small yet frequently touristed city. It has an odd mix of buildings, thanks to the Normans [French] stopping by Sicily on their way back from crusading in the 11th century. Although the medieval and modern day Cefalù are directly on the sea, the remains of the original ancient Cefalù sit on an impregnable rocky hill overlooking the bay. There are a series of winding paths atop the hill, and the ruins are perfect for soaking up some Sicilian sun.

Hills, beaches, sea... it's all good

Just looking at any of my Sicily pictures can take me away from a dreary, breezy midwestern autumn day. The entire week we were there, it was 70+ degrees and sunny. Despite mafioso risks, Sicily is a must-visit for all at some point.

A view of the new from the ruins

Taste of Rome

Nothing too crazy today, just an old video I shot on a typical walk from our Hotel in Rome to our studio... The school recently purchased a newer studio, as well as student apartments, so soon this route will be outdated. However, I'll still remember when the walk was uphill- both ways. And watch out for motorini!

Past Blast: Trieste

The Castle Miramare

Trieste is located in far northeast Italy, facing Venice from across the top of the Adriatic Sea. It is also along Italy's border with Slovenia, and it became part of Italy only after WWI. Its multicultural heritage is clearly seen among the numerous Roman ruins, Austro-Hungarian downtown, and Venice-like waterfront.

A long, 4-mile stone-paved coastal walk called the Barcola leads from downtown Trieste to the Castle Miramare. Originally built for a Habsburg Archduke, the castle stands on a point looking out at the Adriatic and is surrounded by an extensive garden.

Trieste's Municipio

Downtown, the Piazza Unità d'Italia [The Plaza of United Italy] is said to be Europe's largest open urban space facing a body of water [mmm... qualifiers!]. Guidebooks only called it Italy's largest piazza. Either way, the sea breeze kept the plaza nice and cool. The city's Municipio [City Hall] dominates the short closed end of the space. There is a funicular train up the hills around the city as well, allowing for grand panoramic views of the city and sea.


For a day trip between Italy and Slovenia, Trieste worked. I still remember the pesto & salami lunch we enjoyed on the Barcola hike, and the downtown is small enough to see in a few hours. If you stay the night, you can watch the sun set over the Adriatic Sea, this being the only city in Italy you can do so.

Sunset!

Past Blast: Turin

Interior Dome of Turin's San Lorenzo, by Guarino Guarini [1679]

I dropped by Turin [Italian: Torino] during Spring Break in 2004. Located in far northwest Italy, it is nestled in the Alpine foothills. I visited before the 2006 Winter Olympiad was held there, but the city was already in the midst of facade cleaning and venue construction. America-side Turin is most famous for its Shroud. I wasn't able to see the Shroud for myself due to its being on tour at the time, but I found the museum dedicated to the Shroud and the centuries of trying to prove its authenticity interesting anyway. Turin also happens to have one of the largest Egyptian artifact collections [outside of Egypt, of course].

The Mole Antonelliana

Turin is also home to what was originally conceived as the world's tallest synagogue, the Mole Antonelliana. Today, it houses Italy's National Museum of Cinema. The interior is a modern collection of tributes and film reels that highlight Rome's Cinecitta heyday. Nevermind that many Italian films also appear on MST3k. It also lets you get a view of Turin and the surrounding Alps from atop the dome.


Turin really surprised me. I basically penciled it in as an overnight place to stop on my way up to France, but it actually had a nice collection of museums, Roman ruins,  and churches to spend the day sightseeing. I didn't have a chance to get out to the mountains, which during the winter would be a great place to catch some skiing. If you're ever traveling through Turin via train, I highly suggest making a day [or two] of it. It will be a nice breather from the more touristy parts of your trip.

Roman gate Porta Palatina

Always liked this photo of a Turin bollard... disguised as a penguin

Past Blast: Orvieto

Orvieto's Wall

Orvieto is a small hilltop town in southwestern Umbria. It is easily traveled to from Rome's Termini train station, and is a great place to spend a day trip when you need a break from urban Roma. Our class hit it up both on our trip north towards Florence, and as a side-project to redevelop the old military barracks. Ah yes, the good old Caserma project.

Il Duomo

In the mood for some Vino? Orvieto is famous for its white wine: "Orvieto Classico." The city itself seems to be surrounded by vineyards; anytime you find yourself on an outer wall of the city, that's what you'll be looking down on. Keep an eye out Stateside for a bottle or two in the larger liquor stores; it's usually a nice, light summery drink.


The facade of Orvieto's Duomo was recently restored, and is a nice surprise while wandering the narrow winding streets. If you catch it on a nice day, the sun will reflect brilliantly off the gold paint. Inside the 700-year-old building is a chapel containing a cloth that was bled on by a consecrated host; just look for the crowds that tend to gather in front of it.


Orvieto's hillside is made out of that ever-present tufa stone of central Italy. Easily quarried, the hill is now lined with tunnels that you can tour deep underground. If you're lucky you'll see an Etruscan ruin or two.

Echo!

Past Blast: Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita street, typ.

One of our abroad day trips to the Viterbo province of central Italy was to the Civita di Bagnoregio: an old, isolated hill town. It's another cut-from-some-fantasy place, and its imposing view of the surrounding landscape lets you know how it has managed to survive so long. Its tight streets are car-free, and wind around buildings that seem to have expanded naturally over the years. The city sits on an outcrop of tufa stone, which is easily cut and mortared into the walls, stairs, roads, pizza, etc.

There is only one access road, although it primarily serves tourists these days.

One way in...

Past Blast: Bologna

Nettuno in front of Bologna's Palazzo Comunale

This north-central Italian city, home to the world's oldest university, is often confused America-side with the ground meat sausage baloney. FYI if you want a 'baloney' sandwich in Italy, ask for the Mortadella. And Mortadella does originate from Bologna [buh-lone-ya], so I suppose it is one of the more delicious minor mistakes you can make.

The Arcades

The streets of Bologna are famous for their miles of arcades [covered walkways, not video games]. This means that while in most Italian cities you are constantly dodging minicars in the streets, in Bologna you are guaranteed safe passage. Keep an eye out for the city-mandated crimson window shades as well.

Torre degli Asinelli [Torre Garisenda behind]

Northern Italian towns also tend to have medieval familial towers, and Bologna is no exception. Although less than 20 exist today, at one point there were an estimated 180. Does a local dispute have a neighboring family banging on your door? Just retreat into your handy personal tower and, I don't know, wait it out or throw Mortadella at them.

Past Blast [literally]: Mt. Vesuvius

Mt. Vesuvius

Growing up I had access to a large collection of National Geographic VHS tapes. Aside from having one of the greatest intro-title songs ever, the videos were chock full of history and science. One of my favorites dealt with the ancient city of Pompeii and current archeological discoveries there. I remember the quiet pans on the video, showing Vesuvius overshadowing the ruins of Pompeii. So while my class abroad only spent a day in Pompeii, I made sure to get back and climb to the top of the volcano myself.

The steaming gun

A little background: Mount Vesuvius [Italian: Monte Vesuvio] is located east of Naples [Napoli], Italy. Well-known for its 79 A.D. destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum, its most recent eruption was in 1944 when US troops were occupying the Italian peninsula. Over 3 million people still live near the officially active [albeit 'green level'] volcano.

Naples in the distance

There are a number of buses that leave from Naples for Mount Vesuvius, which is now an Italian National Park. They drop you off at the foot of a path that winds around the outside of the cone, providing views of the Bay of Naples. It was cool and crisp the morning I was there; kind of eerie with its moonish-landscape of rocks and ash. At the top of the path you can see into the crater, which looks like the ash is feeding down into a funnel. White wisps of steam still make their way through the rock and dissipate into the air, letting you know there's still a hot magma connection deep beneath your feet.


If you're ever in bustling Naples and have a spare morning, I recommend visiting this quiet crater.

Past Blast: Assisi

Previously, in Italy:

Piazza del Comune, city center

This week's mini-tour occurred on one of our Architecture Class' frequent field trips in Italy. Assisi, home to St. Francis, sits on a mountainside in the Umbria region of central Italy.


Its central piazza still has a Roman-era temple front nestled into its street wall. Of course the pagan structure has since been converted into a church. Hello, photo op.


I also dug up a short video taken at noon- when the many bell towers in Assisi let you know it's time to grab some lunch. One thing we don't have in the States is this daily, sometimes overpowering ringing of bells. Too bad.



A couple more random photos: once the morning fog lifted, it was a perfect day.

Arcade, Basilica di S. Francesco d'Assisi

Overlook, Basilica di S. Francesco d'Assisi