Zephyr Trip: Day 4

Route, Days 4 & 5: Denver, CO, to Emeryville, CA

We grabbed a quick breakfast with my sister before she dropped us off at the temporary Amtrak station near Coors Field [Denver's Union Station is being remodeled]. We got on the train soon after it arrived, and secured similar seats to the ones we had rolling into town [although we ended up with a lady just behind us who seemed to sleep the entire 30 hours to Emeryville].

Big-10 Curve and Denver in the distance

The train pushed out, and began making its way toward the Rockies. The first major change in elevation occurs at the "Big-10" curve as the train uses this huge switchback to get up into the foothills. The downdrafts from the mountain are so strong that they had to weld full hopper cars to a track next to the curve to act as a windbreak. As you rise, the east side of the train had a last view of Denver and the Great Plains- goodbye flatlands!

The Tunnel District.

The Amtrak began winding its way through the mountains in what's known as the "Tunnel District," a series of 29 tunnels that interrupt the already-breathtaking vistas. Here you'll catch a distant view of the Gross Dam & Reservoir, which provides the Denver metro area with all of its drinking water. The final tunnel is the 6.2-mile Moffat Tunnel, which also takes you through the Continental Divide. So from here on out, all rivers lead to the Pacific!

Fraser, CO

By now we were high enough for snow to still be a couple feet deep, and we spent a long stop at Fraser, Colorado, as a big ski group unloaded at the station. The train began following the Fraser River, which soon led to the upper reaches of the Colorado River. The tracks wind along the water, with an occasional tunnel or trestle, using the river's constant grade as a guide. Early on we passed through Gore Canyon, which is only accessible via Amtrak or trying to take on the Class V rapids by kayak or raft. With the train constantly turning to follow the river, the views up and down the valleys were spectacular.

Train #6, eastbound

Amtrak doesn't own any of the tracks on the route, so occasionally we would have to park and wait for [higher priority] Union Pacific trains to pass us. Usually a mile or two of coal-filled hoppers, with engines at the front, middle, and back of the trains to push it through the difficult grades. At one point, our westbound California Zephyr [Train #5] passed its eastbound sister train [Train #6], headed back the way we had come.

Welcome to Utah

As the afternoon wore on, we slowly made our way out of the Rockies, making a couple stops including Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction. By the time we caught up with Interstate 70, the snow had disappeared and the canyons and cliffs began to take on a red hue; an early preview of the Colorado's Grand Canyon handiwork. Around dinner time we officially passed the Colorado-Utah state line. Cas and I were paired up with travelers from Norway and Amsterdam, and the sun set as we had dessert. I highly recommend the cream puffs!

Waiting for a Union Pacific freight train

Gross Dam in the Eastern Rockies

Just after passing the Continental Divide

Fraser River

Shortly after meeting the Colorado River

Gore Canyon

Waterwheel

Crossing

The Lounge Car [Glenwood Springs stop]

Glenwood Springs, CO

Highlands Retreat

Cattle

Bridge over the River Colorado

Eons of Rock

Mountain Vineyard

I-70's river route

Star-shaped mesa

Welcome to the West

Past Blast: Prague

Týnský chrám at night

Charles Bridge, with Prague Castle above

Prague, one of the highlights of eastern Europe, is the Czech Republic's capital city. Sitting upon 9 hills and stretching across the Vltava River, it is sort of a colder version of Rome. In fact, the Holy Roman Empire once ruled from here, and King Charles IV built his famous namesake bridge in the 1300s.


There is plenty to see, and as long as you don't mind hiking a bit, it's all quite accessible. The Jewish quarter has cramped cemeteries and synagogues to visit; one temple's interior is entirely covered with the names of the 77,200 Prague Jews who died in the Holocaust.

Prague Castle; feels like LOTR

Prague Castle [Pražský hrad], noted by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's largest castle complex,  has a commanding view of the entire city. Most of the complex is open to tourists, including St. Vitus' Cathedral and its royal tombs. The castle itself gives you a real feel for the gothic late-middle-ages, and has balconies to admire the city below.


A treat on my visit included a taste of Absinthe, at the time not allowed in many European countries [let alone the US] due to its high alcohol content and alleged hallucinogenic properties. Prague is also home to many quality and economically-priced beers. According to my journal, we enjoyed 0.5L mugs of a local Pilsner for the equivalent of $1. So while you may be doing a lot of walking, there will be plenty of opportunities for refreshment.

View of Prague from its hrad

Past Blast: Montpelier

The Vermont State House

Montpelier City Hall

One of the more difficult state capitals to remember [at least if you're not from New England], Montpelier is also the smallest in population [~7,700 people]. Sitting in the Winooski River valley among the Green Mountains, the drive into town twists and turns between exposed granite cliffs. I visited in January 2009, so there was plenty of snow on the ground [White Christmas anyone?].


The Vermont State House found its place in Montpelier due to the city's relatively central location in Vermont. Civil War era cannon still sit under the front portico, souvenirs from the state's service to the Union. A free audio tour is available, if you miss the also-free Guided tours.

Interesting foundation...

The downtown is easily walkable, and has plenty of small sandwich shops/cafes to grab a bite in. Many bridges jump over a small branch of the Winooski river, and even a building manages to straddle the water. If you're willing to drive a little, you can easily reach Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream Factory in nearby Waterbury, VT. A $3 tour will net you a tasty sample at the end... worth it.

Yum.