Zephyr Trip: Day 7

The San Francisco Ferry Terminal

On board the Larkspur Ferry

Wanting a full day in the city, Cas & I took a ferry into San Francisco from Larkspur. Travel tip: double-check your rental car's internal clock- I ended up sprinting to the ferry because our clock was running 10 minutes behind! Weather-wise: despite a rainy forecast [I brought 2 umbrellas with us] the day turned out to be warm and sunny.

Yank Sing dumplings

The ferry dropped us off at the San Francisco Ferry Building, and we snagged a couple of transit Day Passes to allow us to maximize our streetcar/cable car rides. After hiking a couple blocks to the Rincon Center [also an old WPA Post office], we admired its 4-story indoor waterfall and then lunched at Yank Sing. The deem-sum style lunch was delicious, especially the house specialty soup-filled-dumplings!

On board Powell Street line

We caught a streetcar on our way to Union Square, and found a nearby fabric store to add to Cassie's growing collection. We took the Powell Street cable car line up through the center of town, and stopped off at the [free!] Cable Car Museum. Here you learn how San Francisco managed to keep its historic cable car fleet alive, and can see the dynamos that power the entire cable system.

The Buena Vista

After taking the Hyde Street cable car down to its turntable, we stopped for a beverage at The Buena Vista- where the Irish Coffee made its American debut. We had a good seat at the bar, near the bartender pouring entire lines of Irish Coffee. Tasty as I remembered, too.

Yum!

After getting our warmup drinks, we headed to Ghirardelli Square to grab some fudge and ice cream sundaes. We decided to wander down towards Fisherman's Wharf, and swung by the [free!] SF National Maritime Museum. Pier 39 was nearby, so we stopped to check in on the resident Sea Lions. While most were lazing about in the sun, there was one small pup that seemed to be on a mission to slither over all of his pals.


A Taylor Street cable car ride brought us near Little Italy, and we had an authentic dinner at Firenze by Night. Walking east to the Embarcadero, we caught our last streetcar back to the Ferry Terminal, and ferried back to Larkspur- hooray for public transit!

The Golden Gate

Alcatraz & the G.G.

The City by the Bay

Inside the SF Ferry Terminal

Waterfall in the Rincon Center

2nd floor of Fabric-Buyer's heaven [Britex Fabrics]

Powering the cables [inside the Cable Car Museum]

So that's why Irish Coffee has a kick

No doubt where to head next

Lighthouse lens [SF Maritime Museum]

Sea Lion life

End of the [Taylor Street] line

Turns on elbow grease

The Embarcadero

Bay Bridge at Night

Zephyr Trip: Day 6 [Engage!]

Day 6: San Francisco, Marin Headlands, Muir Woods

Did I wake up knowing today [April 6th, 2011] was "the day"? I suppose so. The forecast at the time was calling for showers the next two days, so if I wanted a guaranteed-sunny day, this was it. Originally I had considered driving to Yosemite or Mendecino, but in the end it would have been too much vacation time wasted in a car. So I told myself Muir Woods was the place... unless we came across a spectacular view.

Yum!

Uncle Andy drove us to the SFO airport very early to pick up our rental car- early enough that it was still dark on our first pass over the Golden Gate Bridge. After getting our SUV [free upgrade!], we drove downtown to Washington Park to get breakfast at Mama's. However, due to a strange [for a breakfast joint] 8 AM opening, we were a little early. We used the extra time to hike to the top of Filbert Street and walk around Coit Tower. By the time we had soaked in our first panoramic views of the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate, Mama's had opened. Very tasty 'California' omelette for me, French Toast Sampler for Cas.

Fort Point Gopher

We set the GPS for Muir Woods, but detoured a bit when the route took us past the top of Lombard Street- I just couldn't resist idling down the 'crookedest' street in the world. We also decided to stop near Fort Point, which is at the southern end of the Golden Gate Bridge. Again, amazing views of the Bay and bridge from both shore and pier.

Over the G.G. Bridge

After hopping back on Highway 101, we took the Golden Gate Bridge northbound [bonus: free in this direction]. I remembered Uncle Andy mentioning the nearby Marin Headlands as worth a stop, so we turned towards these hills that overlook the Golden Gate Bridge.

Something to call home about...

We found a small turnout overlooking the City, Bridge, and Ocean- and I knew it was time to get the ring out from hiding in my camera bag all week. I waited for other tourists to move on, and soon it was just Cassie and I on the overlook. During a 'lens change' for my camera, I 'dropped' a lenscap to give me an excuse to get down on one knee. When Cas turned around I had the ring out in the open, and asked "Will you marry me?" Yes, original writing, I know. She smiled, I hope a little surprised [other than the fact that she had helped me pick out the ring]. I stood and put it on her finger, where it has been most of the time since! The next 15 minutes involved calling the folks, texting, getting the GPS coordinates of 'the spot' and taking a few pictures.

The Marin Headland Drive

We continued our Marin Headlands drive [with a sparkly ring in the open] past the outdated naval batteries. Eventually passing through a 1-lane tunnel, we were back on route for Muir Woods. We stopped at a Whole Foods to pick up some pesto, salami, bread and cheese for a mini-picnic then drove down a narrow, winding road to the Muir Woods National Monument.

Entry

No picnicking allowed inside the Park, so we scarfed down lunch in front of the Main Gate. After a brief gift-shop stop, we started following the stream north. Soon the trees of the famed Cathedral Grove were towering over us. The tourists began to thin out, and we hiked through the quiet woods and up the switchback sides of the valley, passing a banana slug on the way. After a brief stop at a campground, we headed back downstream. Couldn't have asked for better weather for our first National Park/Monument visit!

Coit Tower

Bay Bridge, early

Christopher Columbus & Alcatraz

Mama's - now open for business

Descending Lombard Street

FYI: suspension bridges are cool

Fort Point hummingbird

Pier near Fort Point

That boat almost has my name on it!

She didn't even know

Unveiled

View from Marin Headlands

Where it all went down

Learning on the Muir Woods trail

Winding through Cathedral Grove

Taller than your average tree

Yes those are people down there

If a tree falls in Muir Woods... make a bridge out of it

Banana Slug on the trail

More coastal redwoods

John Muir mirror

It's official!

Zephyr Trip: Day 5

Route, Days 4 & 5: Denver, CO, to Emeryville, CA

Sunrise in the hills

Woke up early, just before sunrise. We had passed through all of Utah [Provo and Salt Lake City] and most of Nevada overnight. The peaks of Nevada's hills began to light up as we made our way back to the dining car for breakfast. Soon we were packing our gear and freshening up for the final leg of our Amtrak trip.

Truckee River

In Reno, Nevada, "Chuck" from the Sacramento Railroad Museum boarded the lounge car and began to give a running commentary of the "Union Pacific Donner Pass Route." We began by following the Truckee River up to its similarly-named town in the Sierra Nevadas. Large wooden flumes run along the river here, routing water to hydroelectric stations.

Truckee, CA

In Truckee [near Lake Tahoe], Cassie and I were joined by some of my California branch of the family- Uncle Andy & Aunt Elda, Shawndra, Sam and Keira. The more the merrier, I say. Soon we were passing high above Donner Lake, named for the ill-fated party. The train follows a circuitous route through the mountains here, twisting around peaks and canyons with incredible vistas.

Lounge Car

Winter 2010-2011 set a record for snowfall in the Sierra Nevadas, and the 10' of snow still on the ground made sitting on the second floor of the Lounge Car feel like sitting at ground level- although many of the smaller trees were buried up to their tops. After our quick lunch in the dining car, the California Zephyr was finally on its way down to sea level.

The Mothball Fleet

Traveling through California's Central Valley, we passed Roseville [the largest railyard west of Chicago] just before a quick stop in Sacramento. From here on out the Zephyr only stops if ticketed passengers need to get off- so we actually got ahead of schedule in the end. We passed the "Mothball Fleet" in Suisun Bay, waiting for the next World War, and caught sight of the hills near the Pacific. Soon we were coasting along San Pablo Bay, then with the Golden Gate to the west we arrived at Emeryville, CA. End of the line!

Coach Aisle

Overall, I enjoyed my first Amtrak trip; would certainly recommend the California Zephyr route, although would suggest investing in the sleeper accommodations [meals included!] if you decide to do the entire route in one go. I look forward to sampling another Amtrak route in the future; perhaps the Empire Builder, Coast Starlight or the Southwest Chief.


It felt good to get a shower in after 30 hours on a train, and we had a great dinner in San Rafael at the Panama Hotel. Delicious seafood while enjoying the live jazz music of perhaps the oldest quartet I have ever seen.

Nevada Early

Nevada Landscape

Truckee River

Hydroelectric Plant

Donner Lake

Lounge Car View

Sierra Nevadas

Valley

Snow Removal Train

Bridge over Suisun Bay

Made it to California!